It is widely known that foods acquire a special allure depending on the wines paired with them. What is less well known, however, is how much difference the choice of a specific vintage and a given label from a selected winery can make.

Choosing a wine to pair with a dish isn’t easy, which is why we rely on the experience and skills of the Sommelier at the Hotel Tritone, who knows the many special and unique characteristics of each wine from our cellar.

On this occasion Mirco, the Sommelier, has selected 3 bottles to pair with a classic autumn dish that our guests can enjoy at the Hotel’s restaurant: venison loin cooked at a low temperature in golden pastry, with Isabella grapes and strips of porcini mushrooms from the Euganean Hills.

The features of Euganean reds

Two of these wines come from these very hills, where there are also several indigenous grape varieties, and where the terroir is extremely variable due to the many combinations of sun exposure, soil type and hill height. 

The predominant grape varieties are imported: merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and carmenère. These produce high-quality bottles that are also recognised by international guides.

ONE OF THE PRECIOUS GEMS AMONG THE COLLI REDS

The first of the three chosen wines is “Borgo delle Casette“, from the Il filò delle vigne winery in Baone.  The vines are cultivated in a characteristic chalky soil, at an altitude of about 150m. This wine is a blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and carmenère, and is characterised by low yields that create a grape concentrated in substance and a wine perfected for a long time in the bottle. In fact, this bottle is from the 2016 vintage and in the prime of maturity. The red wine is sumptuous with an intense, almost impenetrable colour. The bouquet is velvety and the taste is rich, with spicy notes and aromas of tobacco and chocolate.

THE ALTERNATIVE: THE SPECIAL ROSÉ

For the second wine, we’re staying in the Euganean Hills, but moving into the category of rosé. This is a choice that will satisfy those palates that are not so fond of red wine. We are talking about “Monte Ricco Rosè” from the Terra Felice winery, which we presented in the article dedicated to the rosés of the Euganean Hills.

This label goes perfectly with venison because it’s made from pinot noir grapes, a variety that creates a relative longevity for a rosé (the vintage is 2017). It is not, therefore, a traditional rosé — quite the contrary. It is complex, but it is precisely this characteristic that makes it ideal for pairing with venison.

ORIGINALITY BEYOND THE VENETO REGION

The third and final wine comes from Trentino Alto Adige, specifically from the Foradori winery. “Teroldego rotaliano” is a biodynamic wine, and therefore difficult to produce. The rules of organic farming apply, as does a special vine philosophy that considers the impact on the terroir. Particular care is taken in the production of this wine, and controls are tight.

Teroldego is a dry and complex wine, characterised by good freshness and medium acidity. Notes of dried plum, leather and dried hay can be perceived in its flavour.

As well as being a worthy accompaniment to venison, this wine is perfect for those new to complex labels such as this.

Having presented the wines, it’s now time to introduce the gourmet dish created by our chef, accompanied by the original recipe, step by step, so that you can recreate this exquisite dish at home. The recipe is very complex, and suitable for expert cooks; those who don’t feel experienced enough, or don’t want to try this at home, can always come back to the Hotel Tritone to taste it!

LOIN OF VENISON COOKED AT A LOW TEMPERATURE IN GOLDEN PASTRY, WITH ISABELLA GRAPES AND STRIPED OF PORCINI MUSHROOMS FROM THE EUGANEAN HILLS

INGREDIENTS

• 1kg venison loin
• 1 carrot
• 1 stalk of celery
• 1 onion
• 300g Isabella grapes
• 100g filo pastry dough
• extra-virgin olive oil
• rosemary 
• sage
• straw wine (also known as raisin wine)
• 1 egg white
• garlic
• parsley

METHOD

De-bone and clean the venison loin, then season it with salt and pepper.

Heat a frying pan and brown the venison to seal it.

Cut the Isabella grapes into small pieces (reserving a dozen whole grapes), and add them, along with the onion, celery, carrot, extra-virgin olive oil, sage, and rosemary, to a vacuum-sealed bag, before inserting the venison.

Create the vacuum, and leave it to marinate in the fridge for 12 hours.

Set the oven to steam for 3 hours at 62°, and place the bag with the meat and other ingredients inside.

In the meantime, clean the porcini mushrooms with a damp cloth, rinse them, and cut them into thin slices. Heat a frying pan and quickly sauté the porcini mushrooms with a clove of unpeeled garlic and a few springs of parsley.

Once the meat is cooked, open the vacuum bag and separate the fillet from the cooked vegetables. Next, reduce the liquids to a glaze.

Spread a layer of filo pastry around the loin, brush the pastry with the egg white, and bake at 200° for about ten minutes. 

Fry the remaining grapes in a splash of oil, and add a pinch of sugar.

Plating: place the medallions of venison on a bed of porcini mushrooms in their cooking sauce, and garnish with the grapes.

To taste our dishes and wines, book your next stay at the Hotel Tritone by writing to us here or calling (+39) 049 866 8099